Ask Vic: the ultimate shampoo guide
Hello, VAIN people. Last week Victoria and I talked about the best way to prep for color services. As we’re prone to doing, this led to a much bigger conversation, on proper shampoo techniques, frequency, and just why a large corporate SHAMPOO COMPANY might advocate for more frequent washings. Hmmmmmm.
Here’s a bit of what Vic and I talked about in the wild world of protecting your hair:
“If you learned how to wash your hair from watching a shampoo commercial, you are doing it wrong. The surfactants in shampoo are designed to emulsify oil that are then carried away when you rinse. I have always recommended less frequent hair washing to my clients, and to focus the shampoo to the scalp area + first couple inches of hair. For most people you would have to go a week with out washing for your natural oils to build up beyond the first couple inches. On longer hair, as the lather rinses down the hair shaft that’s sufficient to wash away smoke, dust and pollution and refresh the hair. If you are lathering up the ends of your hair the surfactants with no oil to react with are busy drying out and breaking down your hair. Only if you use exccesive amounts of product or are a super athlete would you need to shampoo more than three times a week. If you have naturally dry hair you could go longer.”
So, less breakage + less wasted product with proper technique? I love it! What other benefits could there be?
“The benefit of less frequent washings is the natural conditioning effects of your own home grown hair oil. Textured hair also gets benefits from an undisturbed curl pattern; with less frequent washings of curly hair there is less frizz and less need for product to control it.”
We’ve compiled some additional info here for those of you who might be literally washing dollars down the drain - while simultaneously doing more harm than good! A step by step shampoo party, with a little styling bonus:
- using a natural bristle bush gently brush your hair and scalp
- if you part on a consistent side, brush you hair back over your part
- this exfolliates your scalp, breaks up product + distributes natural oils
- it also feels great!
- wet your hair
- if you use an oil-based pomade try working the shampoo in before wetting
- put a small amount of shampoo in the palm of one hand
- emulsify the shampoo using your fingertips
- apply small amounts to the root area and scalp first
- then the sides + front, then the crown
- then reach under your hair and apply to the nape of the neck
- lather and massage the scalp
- rinse using cool-warm water
- apply conditioner starting at the ends of your hair
- for dryer hair and scalp work the conditioner up to the scalp
- for oiler hair keep conditioner away from the scalp
- dry hair by blotting and squeezing, not rubbing
- for textured or shorter hair, finger comb out the snarls.
- for longer hair, use a wide tooth comb starting at the ends
- sink teeth in a couple inches at a time working your way towards the head
- to avoid breakage never start at the head and pull down.
- gently queeze extra moisture out and proceed with styling
Voila! An in-depth look at how to treat your ends right.
Not to say I’m not a shampoo lover. There are, no joke, 9 different kinds of shampoo in my shower right now. NINE! Kevin Murphy, you are largely to blame, you little dear. I can’t help it, I love them all. But I also spare my poor color battered ends the cleansing they don’t need, and just keep my bangs + crown from looking shiny.
If there are more shampoo questions out there, bring ‘em on. We welcome the chance to talk clean!
You can also ask questions with your own appointment at VAIN. We’ll be happy to educate you on all matters of beauty - 206.441.3441 for Downtown, and 206.706.2707 for Ballard.
xo,
Sarah Jo, VAIN’s compulsive shampoo purchaser